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2001 Burgandy品種餐酒會

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2001 Kistler Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard (5)(T-1分)2票
14.1%.淡黃。
香氣異常的香甜,幾乎是綜合熱帶果汁,芒果、水蜜桃、鳳梨、百香果等,還有一絲花香,濃郁奔放。
重度酒體,甜美圓潤,餘韻很長,好喝,但桶味較重,大約2.5小時後口感表現下滑。口感與香氣有相當大的不同,很特別。
跟先前喝過的Kistler完全不同的香氣,但T大表示這太明顯是Kistler了。

2001 Peter Michael Chardonnay Belle Cote (7)
14.9%.色澤最深,Gold.
一開始就有一點奇特的味道,濕紙板或CORK味道,不過也還有一些特殊的花香或香料香,也仍有柑橘等果味。
喝來有酒精感,full-bodied,木頭味道,餘韻長,有焦糖味道,微苦。
不是很好喝,香氣和口感也都有一些不對勁,比我先前喝的97差很多,討論後多數人覺得有輕微的corky問題,非戰之罪。

2001 Marcassin Chardonnay Upper Barn Alexander Mountain Estate(2)5票
14.9%.淡黃。
一開始就有很濃厚的烘烤香氣,煙燻、鳳梨、堅果等味道,後續轉出奶油與candy香氣,很甜美,一聞到就覺得是加州酒,直覺認定是Marcassin。後來出現脂粉味與花香。
口感並不過份,中至重度酒體,圓潤甜美之餘保有良好酸度,加州風格明顯,餘韻很長,熱帶果味與堅果味道,好喝。大約2小時後變得比較甜,層次感也變薄一些,但接下來口感維持很久,均衡,好酒。
白酒中的票選第一名。

2001 Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard (3)
15%.淡黃。
塑膠、花香、鳳梨、桶香、柑橘果香、堅果等,香氣層次分明,香甜,持續力強。
中至重度酒體,平衡好喝,甜美但也有良好酸度,餘韻長,以果味為主,好喝。
Peter Michael的前任釀酒師所做,比想像中更好。

2001 Petaluma Tiers Chardonnay (1)(T-1分)
13.5%.金黃,非常清澈漂亮。
一開始就有很濃的熱帶果香,柑橘、鳳梨等,氣味上更有非常神似香檳的酵母與烤麵包味,高雅,香氣很好。但掉得比較快,大約一個半小時之後已經出現走下坡的傾向。
酸度和集中度均佳,酒體豐潤,桶味頗強,餘韻長,堅果類及烘烤香,甜美濃郁,但平衡感還不錯。口感也是比較快走下坡的一支。後期變得單薄,有酒精感。
做得相當好的澳洲酒,與加州酒相比頗難區分,T大表示Tiers本來就做得很不錯。

2001 Ca’del Bosco Chardonnay Terre de Franciacorta(6)(T-1分)
13.5%.色澤最淡,pale gold.
香氣一開始有一些塑膠味,其後有奶油味、柑橘、堅果味與一些花香,香氣沒有其他酒濃郁,比較收斂。
餘韻長,酸度明顯,但整體感覺偏甜一些,有乾果味,好喝,口感圓滑油潤,但比其他酒薄一點,香氣和口感持續力卻出乎意料的好,一直到最後(4小時)都還持續得不錯。

2000 Comte Lafon Meursault Clos la Barre (4)(T-0.5分)4票
13%.
一開始香氣比較封閉,甚至有些空洞,果味與木桶味都有,烘烤香。後來一度出現花生醬與中式醬料等特殊香氣,杏仁味。
起初酸度很高,有點衝,餘韻偏短,但很均衡,容易搭餐。後續口感較為圓潤,嚴謹節制。
有典雅的風範,舊世界風格仍然得到不少支持者,但比好喝比香氣都不是頂級加州酒的對手,看來至少該拿一級園才能作公平的比較。

2001 Domaine Ponsot Clos de la Roche V. V.(A)2票
紅寶石色,邊緣帶紫。
紅色漿果的香氣很濃,甜美的各式莓果,除果味外亦有一些年輕的植物系味道,如藥草、青草等,但始終是以濃縮果香為主,果味非常持久。
酒體很強壯,甚至有些粗野,單寧與酸度均高,有皮革味,不是很平衡,但不難喝,且非常有潛力。
答案揭曉後跌破大多數人眼鏡,因為這樣濃郁的果香實在不是Ponsot原本被期待的表現,這也是T大唯一真正猜錯的一支。

2001 Marcassin Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir(B)3票
14.7%.較深的紫/紅色。
紅色水果的香氣很甜美很吸引人,一點皮革味道,桶味是紅酒中最香濃的,後來出現黑醋栗、黑加侖子等黑色水果香氣及濃厚的花香。
中至重度酒體,偏甜一點,但有足夠酸度,果味豐盈,好喝,非常討喜,藍莓味道,有良好的架構。很典型的加州PINOT。

2001 Bass Philip Premium Cuvee Rare Pinot Noir(C)6票
Ruby-red,色澤很淡,似顏色較深的Rose。
較沈穩的香氣,earthy、濕土壤、草葉等,但也有黑加侖子類的香甜果味,後續出現一些皮革味道,香氣上是最接近一般勃根地紅酒的一支。
口感有非常好的酸度,很清爽,均衡節制,典雅,3支紅酒中口感也以這支最為古典,但出人意料的竟是澳洲酒。口感上掉得比較快是比較大的缺點。


餐點部分出乎我意料的好,麵包比前幾次來吃差一點,但其他都比先前更好,前菜三色小點不錯,湯也好喝。主菜我點圓鱈,雖然醬汁不是那麼出色,但鱈魚本身肉質極佳,廚師控制火喉也控制得很不錯,肉質鮮嫩,保有juicy的口感,配菜蘆筍等也都不錯。甜點的牛奶冰淇淋尚可。據說領班S先生有特別要求過廚房,在此致謝。另外,冰桶的準備等也非常貼心。
The One的空間寬敞,氣氛舒適,酒杯等周邊器材充足,服務也令人安心,而且可以容許我們比較喧嘩一點,頗適合舉辦餐酒會。

2006.4.21.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
WA:
Kistler Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard 2001
95
The 2001 Chardonnay Kistler Vineyard is a tightly-knit offering.
Light gold-colored with considerable glycerin and power, it exhibits a
liquid minerality, and a big, rich, textured style with huge
concentration. Most of the wine’s character is at the back of the
palate. This offering reminds me of a Batard-Montrachet from the likes
of Louis Latour. With extraordinary length, richness, precision, and
purity, this sensational Chardonnay will drink well for 6-8 years.
Dec-03

(Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 04
Rated: 94(+)
Rich yellow color. Rather full-blown, expressive aromas of peach, apricot, minerals, licorice and mint. Fat with peachy fruit and complicated by notes of white flowers and vanillin oak. A sweet, pliant fruit bomb with less of the mineral and sulfidey character shown by some of the other Kistler 2001s.
And yet this is still rather unevolved; a few years in bottle should bring even more complexity. Very long on the aftertaste.)

Marcassin Chardonnay Upper Barn Alexander Mountain Estate 2001
92-94
The 2001 Chardonnay Upper Barn-Alexander Mountain Estate, made
primarily from an old Wente Chardonnay clone, reveals good underlying
acidity along with honeyed, sweet citrus and orange rind notes. The
flavors are intense, and abundant quantities of smoky hazelnut
characteristics emerge as the wine increases contact with air. There
is also an underlying minerality in this full-bodied,
gorgeously-textured, grand cru Chardonnay. It should drink well for a
decade.
Aug-02

(Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar, May/Jun 05
Rated: 91
Pale yellow with a green tinge. Sweet, leesy aromas of peach, white plum, quince, almond and smoke. Supple and lush on the palate, showing the exotic tropical fruit notes characteristic of this bottling. Offers an intriguing saline nuance. Fat and sweet, but noteworthy more for its seamless texture than its moderate flavor complexity today. I’d hold this another year or two and try again.
The last vintage for this wine at Marcassin.)

Peter Michael Winery Chardonnay Belle Cote 2001
91-93
The 2001 Chardonnay Belle Cote exhibits exotic tropical fruit notes, a
layered, opulent texture,medium to full body, less minerality than La
Carriere, beautiful layers of fruit, and a stunning finish.This
brilliant effort should drink well for 5-7 years.
Aug-02

(Connoisseurs’ Guide to California Wines, Oct 03
Rated: 96
Few recent Chardonnays can rival this extravagant offering in terms of sheer size and scale, yet where many wines of such ambition lose sight of their essential fruit, this one is brimming with abundant ripe-apple fruitiness that is fully up to handling its altogether lavish appointment of sweet and spicy oak.
Deep, dense, and very full-bodied, this is a wine to save for the most flavorful dishes, and its show-stopping richness makes it a first-rate choice for teaming up with the Christmas goose or even lighter, white-meat courses.)

Aubert Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard 2001
Rated: 92
The Quarry Vineyard is a parcel of Chardonnay also utilized by Peter
Michael for its La Carriere and Belle Cote offerings. Very pure,
Aubert’s 2001 Chardonnay Quarry Vineyard reveals a leesy, earthy,
stone fruit-scented nose, a full-bodied,nicely textured mouthfeel, and
rich, honeysuckle, grapefruit, and white peach flavors. It is an
outstanding effort, but does not have quite the size of the Ritchie
Vineyard cuvee. The wine reveals a light greenish hue to its light
yellow color, always a good sign in a top Chardonnay vintage.
Dec-03

Domaine Comte Lafon Meursault Clos de la Barre 2000
89-91
The 2000 Meursault Clos de la Barre bursts from the glass with aromas
eminiscent of ripe pears and sweet white peaches. It is soft,
medium-bodied, loaded with apple compote, minerals, and spices. This
well-structured wine should be consumed over the next 7-8 years.
Dec-01

Marcassin Three Sisters Vineyard Pinot Noir 2001
Parker:93-95
’Sweet black cherries intermixed with autumnal compost
and earth notes jump from the glass of this expansive, rich,
full-bodied effort. It reminded me of a young 1985 Clos de Tart.’
Tanzer:90
’Sexy aromas of candied strawberry, smoke, truffle and
underbrush. Penetrating red berry flavors are framed by firm acidity.
WS:

Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Ritchie Vineyard 2001
95 Collectibles
30-Jun-03
Wonderful aromas of flowers, honeysuckle, fig, butter and hazelnut.
Rich, silky flavors that are elegant and refined, with a creamy,
citrus-laced finish. Vibrant acidity gives it backbone and sustains
the flavors on a long, minerally aftertaste. Drink now through 2007.
702 cases made. (JL)


Peter Michael Chardonnay Sonoma County Belle Cote 2001
93
31-Jul-03
Rich, exotic smoky oak, fresh bread dough and smoked grain aromas
surround a plush core of ripe pear, fig and earthy citrus flavors that
turn creamy and buttery on a long, lingering finish. Shows a trace of
heat, but is enormously complex and sophisticated. Drink now through
2007. 2,365 ases made. (JL)

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