結束愉快的台北之旅，帶著疲累的身軀、放滿手信的袋子，還有幾瓶葡萄酒步進中正機場，準備返回香港。未登機已開始懷念台北，懷念她的繁華，懷念她的廉價日本料理，懷念她的特色酒肆，當然還有Kevin, Jerry, Gerald, Colin, Kiki等一眾朋友的熱情接待，特別是Andy伉儷為我們四出奔走。
由於航班延誤，回到香港家裡已是晚上十時許，小弟寒舍位處偏僻，附近的食肆早已關門，加上香港的天氣明顯轉冷，街上刮起大風，簡直可用飢寒交迫來形容當時景況。如今才明白積殼防飢的重要，家裡連乾糧也沒有，不多不少只剩兩包「出前一丁」（台灣和大陸好像叫方便麵）。食物問題算是解決了，誰知往台灣前我們已把家裡的開水全部喝清，滴水不留，怎麼辦？難道要冒著燙傷喉嚨的危險，喝剛燒熱的沸水嗎？
「拿香檳代替開水吧！」女友輕描淡寫的說。
「那裡找來香檳？所有存貨都放在公司啊。」我說。
「你不是把一支放在凍櫃低層的蔬果盤，用報紙裹著嗎？」接著便回頭執拾行李。
「是嗎？」我半信半疑鑽進凍櫃尋寶。「真的有一支蒼海遺珠，用香檳配出前一丁，真是吃得富貴。」
那天是我們便用價值HK$300的香檳配兩包共值HK$4的出前一丁，吃一口麵，喝一口香檳，自覺很酷，而且很好笑，主觀想像出前一丁的麵質也提升了許多。說實在的，出前一丁的調味湯太濃，遮蓋了香檳的清爽。呀！差點忘了說代替開水的香檳是哪個品牌，這是我其中一款最愛的Non-vintage Champagne ～Gosset Grande Reserve，我對她的瓶子特別有好感，茶色玻璃加上幼長的瓶頸，樣子很幽雅。
感謝千禧年香檳症候群，其實我也是去年初像其他人一樣，一窩蜂買香檳慶祝千禧年來臨時才開始認識這個品牌，一喝便愛上了，而且其售價比不少NV便宜，但質素卻有過之而無及，氣泡綿密；果味豐富而不膩，堅果、烤土司和梨香十分誘人，餘韻留有絲絲果甜，最主要是沒有過份的酸度。（說起酸度，上周在台灣喝1992 Taittinger Matta時，覺得酸度很高，但相對Taittinger NV、Taittinger Vintage 1994及其他系列，Matta的果味算是豐富，也是較比衡的一款，可以輕微改變我對Taittinger的看法，不過Matta售價畢竟太高，這等價錢已可買VCP的寡婦、Dom Perignon及Krug了，亦相等於兩支Salon。）
坊間對NV Gosset Brut Champagne Grande Reserve有不錯的評價，如下：
Wine Enthusiast: 90
Earthy and truffley in an attractive and complex STy, this fairly mature offering has a full mouthfeel and rich apple and plum flavors. The long finish brings tart plums. This has the stuffing to be used as a dining Champagne, and the reserved elegance required for drinking alone or with hors d’oeuvres. — W.E. (12/31/00)
Stephen Tanzer:91+
Complex, deep aromas of spice, smoke, minerals, toast and orange oil; strong suggestion of yeast autolysis. Big, full, rich and layered; a Champagne with impressive weight and palate presence. Toasty and generously flavored. Finishes with slow-mounting, persistent flavors and a hint of unabsorbed acidity. Still quite youthfully unevolved. Excellent value. (12/2000)
The Underground Wine Journal: 77
Clear, pale straw color. Rich, intense aromas of dried apricot, hazelnut, ginger, yeast and hints of citrus and apple. Orange/tangerine flavors on the palate with pineapple. Cleansing “mouthfeel” with high acid at the edges. The finish is dry with high acid and lemon citrus. Slightly out of balance with the acid dominating. (12/2000)
Decanter: 3*
Fine colour with a touch of pink. Lively, Pinot Meunier style nose. Needs time. Slightly high acidity on the palate but also good quality.
The Journal of the Beverage Testing Institute: 88
Pale yellow hue. Beady aromas have an earthy suggestion. Much more generous on the moderately full-bodied palate with vibrant acidity and tart apple and citrus flavors that linger through the finish. A structured Champagne that will improve with further age. (Spring Issue 2001)
Wine Spectator: 88
Clarity and elegance are the hallmarks, while flavors of apple and pear integrate well with the firm structure. A citrus note lingers on the finish. Drink now. (12/2000)
Restaurant Wine: 5 stars
The Grande Reserve Brut is a medium full style of Brut Champagne, with intense youthful fruit character (lemon peel, pineapple) and moderate complexity (roasted nut, vanilla). Crisp finish. Excellent! One of the 10 best. (Winter 2000-2001)
Wine News: 90
Bright golden hue; fine intricate bubbles. Complex scents of honey, almond and maple syrup. Racy flavors of apple, peach and lemon. Supple acidity and honeyed apple notes in the lingering finish. (December 2000/January 2001)
Epicurean: 95
I'm a Champagne enthusiast, but I've never had Gosset before, and this is a great treat. It's a blend of three vintages, 54% Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier and 46% Chardonnay, aged 5 years on the yeast. The bead is miniscule and active, eventually settling into a slow, steady stream. The nose is wonderfully aromatic of Hawthorn blossoms and roasted coffee, while on the palate it's rich and creamy, with a tart citrus and muted cherry fruit, nuances of toasted almonds and a dosage on the high end of Brut. Quite a mouthful. (April 1, 2001)
Bailey’s Fine Wine Diary:4*
Bread and apple nose, moderate richness, creamy texture, good body, nice length. If there is a weakness then at the moment the mousse is a shade coarse. Still very good Champagne, just worth. (07/09/2001)
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