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金色代表尊貴、高不可攀、皇族的專用顏色，有時也代表俗不可耐、揮霍無度。但要用上金漆招牌，總得要無比的勇氣和膽色，也要令人相服的實力。曾當檢察官的Pahlmeyer酒莊莊主Jayson Pahlmeyer當初選用金色作為酒標的字體顏色，便是立志要在葡萄酒的領域上創一番事業，發出耀眼的光芒。

Pahlmeyer產量少， Proprietary Red Blend、Chardonnay和Merlot每款每年的產量只有二千箱，本身已是供不應求，再加上PK（Robert Parker）效應使然，Pahlmeyer不斷漲價，一支1997 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend在香港的售價竟逾$1300港元（折合新台幣約$5500），難怪Wine Today把Pahlmeyer評定為「超級昂貴」（Super-expensive）的品牌。自1986年投產以來，旗艦Proprietary Red Blend每年均被受讚賞，由1993年至1995年，連續三年獲那個PK給予96分、1996年獲95分，1997年則更誇張，獲96至100分，而1998年亦有91至94分。其他老美酒評，特別是Wine Spectator和IWC更齊齊合演三重奏，令Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend的售價由1986的每支$25美元推高至1997年的$80美元，升幅超過三倍（這只是酒莊的公價，還未計算運輸成本、酒稅和酒商的利潤在內）。

說雖如此，Pahlmeyer也是名符其實的好酒。還記得曾報道過在老美Cult Wine品酒會喝Kistler Chardonnay嗎？上次聚會的其中一支加洲Cult Wine，便是1995 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend，此酒是Roger伉儷帶來的，酒標以深紅色為底色，燙金的字體簡單而隆重，未喝此酒已對其留下深刻印象。至於其餘的紅酒也是一等一的老美Cult Wine，包括：

1996 Chateau St. Jean Cinq Cepages
1997 Flora Spring Trilogy
1996 Niebaum Coppola Rubicon
1996 Opus One
1995 Simi Reserve Cab
1995 Robert Mondavi Cab Reserve

其實每支酒都很精采，至少我那支經歷四季煎熬的1995 Simi Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon還未壞掉。不過今次先談1995 Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend，日後再談其他酒。由於那晚喝至酩酊大醉，只能憑藉筆記上的幾個「keywords」追尋失去的記憶，重組後的酒評如下：

「極度深濃的紫藍色，如墨水；帶有藍莓、杉木、果醬和香料等等非常成熟的果子香氣，及後湧現咖啡香，很有深度而複雜。口感非常豐厚，果味濃郁但仍有點青澀，酒精度高。餘韻悠長，在口腔同時留有果味和木味，很平衡，果和木結合得很好，具陳年潛質。如矇瓶試酒，相信會被誤認是波爾多列級酒莊的佳作。」

事實上，Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend就是波爾多式的調配，利用五種波爾多品種調配出來，包括Cabernet Sauvignon、Merlot、Cabernet Franc、Petit Verdot和Malbec。釀酒師根據每年的收成來調校混合比例。1995年的Pahlmeyer Proprietary Red Blend於1998年9月推出市場，旋即獲得極高評價。

Robert Parker Jr. 96 points
"This wine may be even better than the 96 point score I bestowed it. It is unquestionably among the top dozen 1995s. The wine boasts an explosive blackberry, blueberry,cassis-scented nose that has completed soaked up all the new oak in which it has been aged for the last 22 months. It exhibits fabulously extracted, layered black fruit flavors that coat the palate, offering a seamless texture and voluptuous impression. If great wine satisfies both the palate and intellect, these Pahlmeyer offerings are prodigious. Despite the forward drinkability of these reds, all of them will last for 20-25 years. These are mind-boggling efforts."

"This may turn out to be as impressive as the 1994. It boasts an opaque purple/black color, as well as a fabulous nose of pain grille and cassis, with background notes of licorice and cedar. Long, ripe, and full-bodied, with marvelous concentration, purity, and balance, this wine possesses sweet, ripe tannin, adequate acidity, and a long intense finish. It provides a mouthful of fleshy, powerful wine that may or may not close up after bottling. It is capable of lasting 20-25 years."

Stephen Tanzer, IWC 94 points
"Very deep ruby-red. Expressive nose of cassis, chocolate, smoke, toffee and minerals, plus a black raspberry quality that reminded me of a great grand cru Burgundy. Very intensely flavored and solidly structured; already offers uncanny inner mouth perfume. Lively, integrated acidity give the wine superb delineation. Very firm and very long."

Esquire. "Red Gold" Richard Nalley
"Any wine associated with winemaker-consultant Helen Turley vanishes overnight on release, and this is trademark Turley; full-force, filled-in flavor from the tip of the tongue to the vivid aftertaste."

First Sip
"A highly recommended Bordeaux-style blend, big and complex, amazing finish and dept of flavor. A hot wine with considerable following and notoriety. Smart to get in line as early as possible."

Wine Spectator 92 points
"Lots of ripe, juicy plum and black cherry up front, with hints of anise, sage and mineral. Finishes with well-integrated tannins touches of tobacco and creamy oak. (2500 cases produced) Now - 2009"

Wine Today 4*
"A stylish wine that is ready to enjoy now. Aromas: blackberry, cedar, dusty. Flavors: black olive, cedar, olive. Other Descriptors: extracted, supple, voluptuous."


評分及評語夠誇張吧！好是好，畢竟太昂貴。