
在五月喝了很多來自不同產地的好酒,而最難忘的是一口氣喝七個年份,包括75、85、88、90、92、94、95的Chateau Haut Brion,最深印象的主要原因除了是檔次、酒價、難得程度最高外,也是在眾多酒聚之中,只有那次沒有喝到酩酊大醉,還能清醒地拿起筆桿認真寫筆記。像我這樣酒齡尚淺的初哥,過往只喝過兩,三個年份的Haut Brion,而且對年份特點的認識也不透徹,與其說是矇瓶試酒,實質是「盲目瞎猜」而已。猜錯也是意料中事,反正猜錯也不需剖腹自盡。如要我根據喜愛程排次序,當日最捧的年份是90,其次是75、85、94、92、88,而95則排倒數第一。我是在這次試酒之後才翻查Wine Spectator、Robert Parker、Decanter、Wine Access的酒評,發覺有些年份的表現不如酒評描述的那麼出眾,但有些年份卻有驚喜。「」內的是當日的簡單筆記,另附酒莊自評的年份特色和其他酒評。
1995
試酒筆記:「由始至終都是一陣陣草藥、濕襪子和鐵笾氣味,完全沒有果香和味道,而且木桶味很重而帶苦,餘韻長但留下口腔內的又是木桶的甘苦。猜是92年這個較差年份的作品,但結果竟是坊間評價極高的95,這酒要呼吸2小時才滲出果香,曾喝過此酒的朋友說她正在沉睡,要較長時間陳年才顯示實力。」
年份特點:冬季的天氣溫和而夏季則炎熱和乾燥,葡萄很早發芽和開花,6、7和8月的溫度很高但雨量稀少。到了9月,天氣變涼而且月中有雨,但收成時的葡萄仍很成熟。這年的特點是酒質醇和、有結構和帶複雜的果香,可於未來幾年享有,但也有極優越的陳年潛質。適飲期:2005年至2020年。
Wine Spectator: 94
A splendid Haut-Brion with wonderful elegance. Refined tannins. Dark-colored, with beautiful ripe berry, cherry and very smoky nuances. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, plush texture on the finish.
Wine Access: 91-93
Fresh but reticent black cherry-dominated nose. More closed than the '96 following the bottling, and a bit disjointed today. Seems drier than the '96, but has plenty of underlying sweetness, solid structure, and nicely buffered tannins.
Robert Parker: 96
The 1995 has been brilliant on every occasion I have tasted it. More accessible and forward than the 1996, it possesses a saturated ruby/purple color as well as a beautiful, knock-out set of aromatics, consisting of black fruits, vanillin, spice, and wood-fire smoke. Multidimensional and rich, with layers of ripe fruit and beautifully integrated tannin and acidity, this medium to full-bodied wine is a graceful, seamless, exceptional Haut-Brion that should drink surprisingly well young.
1994
(遺失了筆記)這是當晚最後開的一支酒,沒有矇瓶。但印象中其表現當相好,果和木都很平衡。五大的94年,除了latour之外,其他三大都給Haut Brion比下去,如果在垂直矇瓶比併時加入這支94,肯定更難猜中年份。這次試酒會只有兩人猜中四個年份,即使老手也未必猜中,吾等初哥只猜中最易辨認的兩支!
年份特點:就如1993年,這年的冬季天氣非常溫和,葡萄很早開始成熟,但隨之而來的春季卻較冷和潮濕,稍稍減慢了成長速度,到了夏季則炎熱還刮了幾次雷暴,9月下雨令酒莊要趕快收成。這年的酒很柔和,但也有陳年潛質。適飲期:2000年至2010年
Wine Spectator: 93
Silky and unctuous, with aromas and flavors of violet, berry and vanilla, full body, fine tannins and long, flavorful finish. Very close in quality to Haut-Brion's '95. Tempting now, but best after 1999 and for many years thereafter.
Decanter:
Deep red; light oaky nose, has charm rather than power; medium-bodied, lacks vigour and richness, a lot of oak tannin dominates now, disappointingly raw dry finish; quite good length.
Robert Parker: 93
1992
「紫紅色,有藍莓及微微薄荷香,單寧仍厚重,餘韻帶木桶的甘苦,很開放成熟,猜是極佳年份的90,誰知是較差年份的92,92亦是這次試酒會中售價最便宜的Haut Brion,但物值高。」
年份特點:冬季很乾燥,但5、6月變得很潮濕,開花時間長而不穩定, 7月和8月非常炎熱和有雨,葡萄的成熟程度不太理想,並且受到霉菌浸襲,能否保持/拯救這年的酒質,只有依靠釀酒師的功力了。釀酒師特別嚴謹的挑選較優質的葡萄,以圖保持酒質豐腴。適飲期:1996年至2000年
Wine Spectator: 88
Has less richness than the 1993, showing lovely berry and black cherry flavors that shine through a layer of grainy tannins.
Robert Parker: 90
1990
「初聞有提子乾,肉桂、巧克力、咖啡和微微白胡椒香,深紅色,烏梅味,陳年多時但未充分成熟,餘韻悠長而討好。猜是88,又錯!。」
年份特點:和暖的冬季令葡萄提出發芽,春季較冷,但夏季的異常酷熱和乾燥,9月的雨量稀少令葡萄可以健康成長。酒質沒有89年的醇和,但具有經典年份的結構,比起88年更典雅和複雜。適飲期:2000年至2030年。
Decanter:
1994 Tasted: Very deep red; intense new oak nose, very stylish and ripe; soft, dense, rich, very concentrated, oaky but not hard, closed but with tremendous extract, elegant too; very good length.
Robert Parker: 96
Dark ruby-garnet color. Dried berry character, with hints of Indian spices. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, fruity finish. Rather reserved style of Haut-Brion.--1990 Bordeaux retrospective.
Wine Today: 4.5*
Earthy and exotic and years away from its prime. General Qualities: medium-full-bodied, complex, dry, balanced acidity, integrated oak, modest tannins. Aromas: blackberry, caramel, cedar, dusty, pencil lead, plum, smoky, soy sauce. Flavors: blackberry, meaty, pencil lead, plum
1988
「寶紅色,幾乎沒有香氣,很內歛,但口感鑥實而有果味,單寧仍厚,猜是95,再錯!是已有十三歲的88。」
年份特點:冬季和春季都很潮濕,夏季不太炎熱但乾燥,9月有雨,葡萄成長良好,果皮厚而色深。酒呈深紫紅色,有力度但單寧尚柔和。適飲期:2000年至2025年
Wine Spectator: 98
The wine of the vintage and one of the greatest Haut-Brions ever made. Superpowerful and ripe, with masses of spice, mint and berry character. Full-bodied, with full yet polished tannins, this wine is a joy to taste and will be for decades.--1988 Bordeaux horizontal.
Robert Parker: 91
1985
「紅中帶橙色,應是老酒,有肉桂,煙草及提子乾氣息,中度豐厚,入口有偏甜的果子味,豐富,單寧充足,應可存放多幾年而質素不變。估計葡萄收成時非常成熟,那年天氣應該很熱吧,是85嗎?這次猜中了。」
年份特點:成長季節炎熱,但9月的霧水令差點枯乾的葡萄得到滋潤,具天鵝絨般的單寧和非常典雅,複雜而餘韻悠長。
Wine Spectator: 93
Supple, harmonious, cascading with beautifully balanced fruit, spice and earthy tobacco notes. Not a powerhouse, but very fine and delicious to drink now. Should keep growing for five to 10 years.
Robert Parker: 94
1975
「呈磚紅色,肉桂,陳皮梅和雪茄盒,皮革等陳年老酒的典雅香氣,很舒服,中度豐厚而餘韻帶點果甜,單寧已完全醇化,毫無疑問是75,太明顯了,沒有人猜錯。」
年份特點:6、7月非常炎熱,9月天氣卻反覆不定.收成時卻穩定。這年的酒濃郁有勁,需要長時間陳年才能成熟。
Wine Spectator: 90
Austere, lean and polished, not exhibiting the hard edge shown by many 1975s, this is ultimately elegant, graceful and supple. Approaching its peak.
Robert Parker: 93+
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