微醺 ~ 品酒摘記

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專為新世界葡萄酒而設的Winepac葡萄酒節前在香港富麗華酒店舉行，今年已是第十三屆，有超過八百瓶新世界酒參賽，參賽規則規定這些酒款須於比賽前一個月之前在本港批發或零售，大會根據酒的葡萄品種把他們分為幾個類別，然後逐一品評，給予金，銀，銅獎．（*下次再列出各得獎酒款！）

今年在酒展中稱王的是為人熟悉的Dominus 1997 Napa Valley，獲選為Best Red。Dominus的老闆的Petrus的莊主Christian Moueix，Dominus可說是新舊世界的混合體，由本港人頭馬酒行代理，售價超過$800港元。我在試酒會中喝了一小杯，走波爾多風格，有點右岸的影子，帶烏梅，皮革，煙草及肉桂香，口感中度豐厚，單寧出奇地柔和，”Not So Big”，收結有力，有陳年潛質，但現在已很好喝了。以下是一些專家的酒評，評分全部達到90分以上：

Winespectator Score: 93
“A wine of substance and depth. Dark, rich and polished, with complex notes of earthy, meaty currant, anise, spice, cedar and leather, fanning out on the finish. Young and concentrated. Better than previously reviewed. Best from 2002 through 2012. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 8,500 cases made.”

Robert Parker: Score: 94
''The 1997 Dominus Napanook Vineyard possesses a broad, dense personality, lots of volume, and a long, fat, rich mid-palate and finish. The alcohol is listed at 14.1%, and the finish pH is high (3.95), which makes the wine charming, fleshy, and silky-textured. I do not know how he does it, but Christian Moueix is able to make Cabernet Sauvignon from the southern Napa Valley taste like a terrific Pomerol. The 1997 possesses considerable quantities of glycerin, terrific fruit purity, and gobs of black cherry and cassis flavors intermixed with licorice, coffee, and Asian spice notes. It is a stunning Dominus that will be drinkable when released, and will age well for 15-20 years.''

Wine Access Score: 95
“Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose offers a panoply of scents: black plum, currant, leather, smoked meat, cigar ash, lead pencil, sandalwood, dark chocolate, licorice, brown sugar. Very bright and sharply defined; flavors of plum, leather, hot stones and lead pencil. An impeccably balanced wine of compelling sweetness, but rather dominated today by its structure. Strong, thoroughly ripe tannins spread out to coat the entire palate. Very long and subtle. This was bottled last June, a couple months later than the Napanook wine.”

Wine Enthusiast Score: 93
“Deep berry, cinnamon, briar and mint aromas. Firm, even backwards, it is trim and elegant, yet solid. Black fruit and bitter-chocolate flavors abound. The finish is especially tight, with dry tannins and complex mineral and earth elements. Huge but refined, the quintessential iron fist in a velvet glove; it needs time.”

Vintage Direct (Australia)
“This estate is owned by Christian Mouex of Chateau Petrus fame. Made from a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 17% Merlot. The wine has been in French oak of which 20% was new. Medium body, crimson mauve colour. Superb nose, sophisticated - Bordeaux like, with aromas of violets, cedar, blackcurrant and spice. Mouthfilling palate with flavours of liquorice, blackcurrant and cedar. Very dry tannin structure that comes out and meets the top of the tongue and then proceeds to overwhelm the gums, leaving the fruit gasping for help.”