
Beef noodle soup is widely considered the national dish of modern Taiwan, assembled from the island’s tumultuous history, celebrated with an annual festival in Taipei and fought over in a cooking competition with multiple winning categories. But it is only one of countless dishes that make Taiwan’s cooking remarkable and rewarding.
牛肉麵普遍被認為是現代台灣的國民美食,由台灣動盪的歷史匯集而成,在一年一度的台北牛肉麵節中受到讚揚,並在一場有多個獲獎類別的烹飪比賽中成為競賽項目。不過,使台菜不同凡響且令人滿足的菜色多得數不清,牛肉麵只是其中一種。
Much of its cuisine can be traced to somewhere else, but — like the United States — Taiwan has experienced so many transformations of demography and culture, technology and taste, that the food now has its own identity.
台菜的根源多半能追溯到台灣以外的其他地方,這點跟美國菜一樣,不過,台灣經歷過許多次人口、文化、技術和口味的轉變,使台菜獨樹一格。
Because the modern history of the island includes centuries of immigration and colonization, 50 years of Japanese occupation (from 1895 through World War II), and an influx of 2 million refugees from mainland China when the Communist Party took power in 1949, modern Taiwanese food is a particularly kaleidoscopic mix. (Today, the island exists in political limbo between independence from and absorption into greater China.)
“Taiwan itself is a melting pot,” said chef Vivian Ku, of the restaurant Pine & Crane in Los Angeles.
台灣島的現代史包括持續幾世紀的移民和殖民、日本占領50年(從1895年到二次世界大戰結束)及1949年中共掌權後從中國大陸湧進200萬人,使現代台菜的面貌格外五花八門。(現今台灣處於政治不確定狀態,對獨立或與大陸統一莫衷一是。)洛杉磯台菜餐廳「松鶴麵莊」主廚薇薇安.顧說:「台灣本身就是一個大熔爐。」
In the United States, Taiwanese dishes have often been swept under the vast umbrella of “Chinese food.” Until recently, only people who know their food geography could spot a restaurant with a particular specialty — beef noodle soup; box lunches of rice, pork and cabbage; braised beef rolled in scallion pancakes — and identify it as Taiwanese.
在美國,台菜往往劃歸「中國菜」這個統稱下,直到不久之前,只有了解菜色地域特性的人,才能認出一家餐廳提供台灣特色菜,包括牛肉麵、盒裝米飯午餐、豬肉炒高麗菜、蔥餅牛肉捲等,並確定那是台菜餐廳。
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