This recipe combines elements of two of my favorite whole-chicken recipes to create something new: First there's the Indonesian Beggar's Chicken from Dana Jacobi's "The Best of
Clay Pot Cooking," which yields a terrific-tasting chicken and sauce. My version borrows most of the basic ingredients in that recipe, but uses the tamarind- and cilantro-based
paste to flavor a roast chicken cooked using the method described by MonkeyMom in her recipe for "Wishbone Roast Chicken," on Food52.
While I've always reduced the pan juices and tamarind paste when using a clay pot, I go a step further here, inspired by the Misoyaki Roast Chicken recipe here on Food52: I add
sautéed onion, along with some soy sauce and rice wine, to the sauce. Rendered chicken fat for sweating the onion makes the sauce even tastier, as do the pan juices and the
cilantro-tamarind paste that's been roasted under the chicken skin. I'll be the first to admit that there's quite a bit of imitation—as well as outright stealing—in this
Note: This recipe uses the roasting method explained by MonkeyMom in her recipe for Wishbone Roast Chicken. I’ve added a few notes below explaining some variations on the
technique that are necessitated by this recipe.
Serves 4 to 6
1 handful cilantro, including stems
3 to 4 garlic cloves, plus more to taste
2 tablespoons low sodium soy sauce, divided
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered, divided
1 teaspoon anchovy paste (or equivalent quantity of mashed filets)
2 limes, divided
One 1-inch cube of solid tamarind pulp
One 4-pound chicken (preferably slightly chilled)
Salt, to taste
1/4 cup rice wine
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
To make the cilantro-tamarind paste, in your food processor, combine the cilantro, garlic, 1 tablespoon of soy sauce, 1/2 of the onion, the anchovy paste, and the juice of 1
lime. Using your fingers, divide the cube of tamarind pulp (it often comes in a tube as a stiff block of pulp) into 5 to 6 smaller pieces and drop them into the food processor
on top of the other ingredients.
Process for about 10 seconds, scrape down, process again, scrape down, and, if necessary, process a third time for a total of 30 seconds. You want the pieces to be small and the
mixture well combined, but you do not want a purée.
To prepare the chicken, remove as much visible fat from the chicken as you can without tearing the skin. Set some of it aside to render it for sweating the onions used in the
Very gently, pull the skin away from the flesh at the top of the neck on the back, across the breast, and down into the cavities between the wings and the body and the legs and
the body. You can either use your fingers do to this, or, if necessary, use the tip of a very sharp knife to cut the inner membrane. Do this carefully to prevent tearing the
With your fingers, slowly and carefully put the tamarind-cilantro paste into the pockets you’ve created between the skin and the meat of the bird. I use a stainless dessert
spoon, bowl side toward the meat, to coax the paste into places my fingers can’t easily reach. Pull the skin up over the neck.
Set a tube cake pan into a shallow, ovenproof dish. (Do not use a glass pie plate for this recipe.) It should sit easily on the bottom of the plate.
Place the chicken over the tube section of the cake pan, as you would with a vertical roaster, with legs on the bottom, pulling them away from the body. Tuck the wing tips
behind the neck. If it appears that the paste is in danger of coming out at the bottom of the chicken, use a skewer or a couple of toothpicks to pull the skin at the bottom
under the bird.
Pat salt all over the chicken and put it into the refrigerator for 3 to 4 hours, if you have time (highly recommended).
To make the sauce, render about 1 tablespoon of chicken fat (about the size of a medium strawberry) into a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Stir it around, pressing it down with
the end of your spoon, to facilitate the release of the fat. Once the pan is covered with a fair bit of fat, turn the heat down and finely chop the remaining half of the onion.
Keep an eye on the pan, however, stirring occasionally and pressing down, to release more of the fat.
Put the chopped onion into the pan with the rendered fat. If the fat hasn't rendered completely by the time you're done chopping the onion, just put the onion in with the piece
of fat and let it render as you sweat the onion. Turn the heat up to medium-high and stir the onions around. Watch carefully lest they burn.
When the onions are clear and glistening in the fragrant chicken fat, turn the heat down. Add the rice wine and stir it about, then add the remaining 1 tablespoon of soy sauce
and the juice of half of the remaining lime.
Stir well and cook over medium-low heat for about 5 minutes. Put the mixture aside until ready to complete the sauce, after the chicken has fully roasted.
Place an oven rack on the lowest shelf of your oven, then preheat your oven to 425º F. To roast the bird, take the chicken out of the refrigerator to let it warm up to room
temperature as the oven preheats. When the oven's hot, put the chicken in on the bottom shelf.
After about 10 minutes, check the bottom of the metal tube pan. Add a bit of warm water if juices from the cilantro-tamarind paste are caramelizing too quickly. The sauce will
be bitter if those juices are allowed to burn. Keep an eye on it and add water if necessary. If the skin begins to get too dark, put a bit of foil very loosely over the top of
After 1 hour (or more if your chicken weighs more than 4 pounds), the bird should be cooked through. Take it out to let it rest.
As the chicken rests, finish the sauce. Pour the pan juices from the cake pan into the pan with the onion sauce. Scrape out any hardened bits, adding a few tablespoons of water
if necessary to loosen them. Add juice from the remaining 1/2 of lime to the sauce. Add salt to taste and freshly ground pepper. Stir well. Cook over medium heat and reduce to
your desired thickness.
Carve the bird and serve it alongside the sauce.